Women Irrigators of Challapata Put a Stop to Gold Mining | Mujeres regantes de Challapata le ponen freno a la minería del oro

By Mabel Franco, Opinion:

This municipality in Oruro is the leading dairy producer in the western region of the country, and women play a vital role in securing food in these highland areas increasingly affected by drought.

Teodora, Isidora, Ángela y Venancia comparten una merienda de chuño y queso en la represa de Tacagua./ MATEO ROMAY, LA BRAVA.
Teodora, Isidora, Ángela, and Venancia share a snack of chuño and cheese at the Tacagua reservoir. / MATEO ROMAY, LA BRAVA.

Last year, the Interinstitutional Committee for the Defense of the Environment of Challapata celebrated a significant victory: they presented Municipal Law 403/2024, which declares the district of Challapata a zone free from mining activity and contamination.

The visit to the offices of the Mining Administrative Jurisdictional Authority (AJAM) almost coincided with the 63rd anniversary of the Tacagua Reservoir, a cornerstone of the agricultural and livestock activities in the municipality of Challapata, the Agricultural, Livestock, and Dairy Industrial Capital of Western Bolivia.

The declaration reflects over 30 years of mobilizations by the people of Challapata to halt various national and transnational mining companies interested in open-pit gold mining.

Challapata is the second most important municipality in the department of Oruro, located 120 kilometers from the capital city. According to preliminary data from the 2024 Population and Housing Census, 35,339 people live in the region, 20% more than in the 2012 census. 

Prudencia Copa ordeña a la vaca Colorada./ MATEO ROMAY, LA BRAVA
Prudencia Copa milks the cow Colorada. / MATEO ROMAY, LA BRAVA

TACAGUA, LIFE DROP BY DROP

The cows Prudencia Copa Chaca tends and milks have names of their own: Negra, Maruja, Colorada… “Thanks to them,” she says of the animals, “I was able to put my five children through school; today, they are all professionals.”

In mid-September, 12 of the 35 cows belonging to Prudencia and her husband, David Chungara, residents of the San Pedro de Puni Ilave community, are producing milk. This allows the couple to produce about 70 liters daily, a figure that can rise to 120 during the rainy season with water from the reservoir.

“I’ve been doing this work for 45 years,” Prudencia explains, though she notes that she used to milk by hand and now has a machine that makes her work easier. The family is waiting for approval of their application to sell their milk to the state-run Bolivian Food and Derivatives Company (EBA), which collects the supply to produce various products at the processing plant in Challapata.

The dairy cows and the “dry” ones—those without calves—graze under the Altiplano sun. By midday, they will be led to drinking troughs filled with well water. What’s important is that the animals eat and drink on time, “healthy, without contaminants,” says their caretaker.

Amid the earthy tones of the San Pedro de Puni Ilave landscape, with adobe houses and a few made of brick, the alfalfa planted by local farmers stands out. There is also barley forage and oats, but the green of the alfalfa is most prominent. The hope for the plants to grow and provide enough for storage rests on Tacagua, Bolivia’s second-largest reservoir, capable of holding 45 million cubic meters of water, supplied by three rivers and rain.

The reservoir gates open once a year. The last opening was on September 30, and irrigation lasted about two months through the filtration gallery that benefits 44 communities in northern, southern, and central Challapata.

The Tacagua Reservoir began operating in 1961, boosting traditional crops like fava beans, potatoes, and peas, as well as forage for sheep, llamas, and cattle. In the 1980s, the successful results of raising cattle convinced many farmers to focus exclusively on milk production, its derivatives, and meat.

Today, 1,200 members are registered with the Association of Users of the Tacagua 2 National Irrigation System. Along with their families, they benefit from a resource that is becoming increasingly scarce in the Altiplano.

The users, or irrigators, are recognized by Law 2878 as members of associations—or committees, cooperatives, and other forms of organization—that, as non-profit entities, manage, operate, and maintain irrigation systems while promoting activities related to agricultural and forestry production.

Arminda García con su hijo Gael y algunas de sus vacas lecheras./ MATEO ROMAY, LA BRAVA.
Arminda García with her son Gael and some of her dairy cows./ MATEO ROMAY, LA BRAVA

THE SHADOW OF DROUGHT

On the neighboring property is Arminda García. “I have 10 cows, 80 sheep, a few pigs, and one llama,” she says, pointing to the various pens. Her husband, Alejandro, must manage this and other farmlands, so he can’t always help her with a task “that demands a lot of dedication—we can’t let our guard down.”

Arminda’s gaze shifts suddenly. “Those birds we call wallata are a plague,” she says, worriedly watching the alfalfa fields as dark-feathered birds descend. “They eat the sprouts, and we don’t know how to scare them off since they appeared, likely fleeing the drought at Lake Poopó,” she says.

Arminda is referring to the lake in Oruro, the second largest in Bolivia after Lake Titicaca in La Paz, which has been drying up since 2014 due to climate change and river diversion caused by mining activity in the area. Water from Tacagua typically flows to that lake, located west of Challapata, when there is a surplus.

“That’s why we defend our water,” says Teodora Vásquez Poquechoca, mother of four children, three of whom are studying in the cities of Challapata and Oruro.

“Tacagua is very important; without water, there is no life,” Teodora explains the reservoir’s value, not only for securing fodder but also for maintaining small potato and bean plots, “even though they are getting smaller,” like her modest property.

Mujeres de Renamat observan cómo Jenny Benavides prepara quesos en la comunidad de Macallu./ MATEO ROMAY, LA BRAVA
Women of Renamat watch as Jenny Benavides prepares cheese in the community of Macallu./ MATEO ROMAY, LA BRAVA

RENAMAT, THE TERRITORY, AND THE WOMEN

The men, who hold most positions in the association, attend meetings, “and we stay behind to take care of the animals,” the house, and the children, says Teodora. Because of this routine shift, she “really likes” being part of Renamat.

The Colectivo Casa (Collective for the Coordination of Socio-Environmental Actions) supports communities from four municipalities in Oruro—Challapata, Machacamarca, Poopó, and Pazña—in managing environmental conflicts.

Coordinator Ángela Cuenca recalls that during meetings, men dominated discussions in plenary sessions while women remained silent. Yet, outside these sessions, women shared important proposals and expressed their thoughts and feelings.

This prompted the creation of training spaces, leading to the establishment of Renamat in 2013, a network that connects women from communities affected by mining in Oruro, La Paz, and Potosí.

Among the network’s achievements is defining a type of violence affecting women’s bodies—one that “impacts rights like access to water, food sovereignty, health, and the economy when the land is harmed,” explains Cuenca.

Teodora shares her experience: “At first, I didn’t speak during network meetings; I was afraid, but little by little, I gained confidence.” Now she openly states that mining will not enter their community because if the land and water are contaminated, “there will be no cows, no sheep, no life; there will be no Challapata.”

This conviction comes from listening to and visiting communities devastated by mining extraction. “We don’t want the same to happen to us,” they conclude, building solidarity with those suffering and making conflicts more visible.

The importance of the women in Renamat was explicitly acknowledged on September 30 in Tacagua when Wilson Leniz Huarita, Municipal Financial Secretary, spoke on behalf of the Mayor of Challapata: “Without you, we irrigators would be weakened; you are our strength.”

ON CONSTANT ALERT

A recent example of Challapata’s fight against mining occurred in Malliri, a community where actions in 2023 led to the suspension of operations by the mining company PiedraSsulf SRL. This national company had a concession predating the Mining Law but, as revealed by complaints from Malliri residents, was openly mining antimony under a small-scale operations license.

Although Malliri is not part of Tacagua’s irrigation area, the Juchusuma River that flows through it feeds an irrigation channel that reaches Lake Poopó, explains Ángela Cuenca.

Authorities from Challapata’s seven ayllus, the municipal government, the irrigators’ association, Renamat, and Colectivo Casa—all part of the Interinstitutional Committee for the Defense of Mother Earth—mobilized. Following inspections by the Ministries of Mining and Environment, illegal operations were halted.

In April 2024, Challapata submitted a request to the Administrative Jurisdictional Mining Authority (AJAM) to define the definitive suspension of operations. The process is ongoing.

Ángela Ayala, who no longer raises cows or farms due to her age and has seen six of her seven children move to cities, is determined to continue resisting mining activities.

“We block roads here,” she says, referring to numerous times they’ve had to protest to prevent operations in Achachucani hill, near the Tacagua entrance and the road leading to Potosí. “We sleep there,” she points to a dry, shrub-filled area beside the dirt road. “For now, we’ve won, but we remain on constant alert.”

Once all the water from the reservoir is drained, beneficiary families will organize to clean it. However, this task has long been insufficient, as 60 years of sediment buildup have reduced Tacagua’s capacity to less than 50%. It’s estimated to now hold about 22 million cubic meters. According to Rubén Alconcé Yujra, president of the user association, and Councilwoman Lili Córdova Puma, dredging will require $40 million.

Concern grows as the municipality lacks sufficient resources to address this priority. “We will have to seek international cooperation,” says Lili Córdova, who explains that the budget includes three phases: watershed treatment, dredging, and reservoir reinforcement.

The urgency is further justified by declining rainfall affecting all of Bolivia. Since 2016, precipitation has dropped by 28%, according to the National Institute of Statistics. Rainy days in Oruro went from 75 in 2005 to only 37 in 2022.

Feria del queso en Challapata, donde se vende también quesillo y yogurt artesanales. Los intermediarios se llevan el “queso de Challapata” a otros mercados del país./ MATEO ROMAY, LA BRAVA
Cheese fair in Challapata, where artisanal quesillo and yogurt are also sold. Intermediaries take the “Challapata cheese” to other markets across the country. / MATEO ROMAY, LA BRAVA

MACHISMO TO OVERCOME

Rubén Alconcé is from the northern community of Waña Kawa. He was elected president at a general meeting of 1,200 users, as will happen with his successor in 2025, who will come from the central region, and from the south in 2026. This is the form of alternation that is respected in Challapata, although for now it is only regional, not gender-based.

“There are already women in the zonal boards, as secretaries of minutes and finance, and water judges,” says this man, who believes that “at some point, a woman will hold the presidency.” For now, “the women irrigators help in every aspect.”

Although men and women work the land and care for the livestock, it is generally the women who make the cheese and yogurt, as well as take the products to the fairs. One of these, the “cheese fair,” takes place in the city of Challapata on Thursdays from 5:00 PM. There, women settle with boxes full of cheese, quesillo, and artisanal yogurt. Occasional buyers and wholesalers visit the place. This way, the “Challapata cheeses,” without labels or packaging to distinguish them, are taken to Oruro, La Paz, Potosí, and wherever the merchant decides to go.

Jenny Benavides is a young woman who not only milks the cows on her uncle Cidar Cepeda’s property in the community of Macallu. She is the one who takes the animals to graze, makes cheese—40 a day—and sometimes packs up to head to the border town of Villazón (Potosí).

“I sit on the street, and the cheeses are sold out; even Argentinians crossing the border buy them because they already know the quality of our cheeses,” she says.

Cidar, president of the irrigators of the central zone, reveals another reality to consider: “Just with milk, under the current conditions of the agro-livestock farmers, it’s impossible to improve production,” which is largely artisanal; such limitations, related to small-scale farming, perhaps explain the emigration of his neighbors: “We were 19 families in Macallu, today we are five.”

César’s children have also left the community, as have Prudencia’s, Teodora’s, and possibly Ángela’s children, who are now in school and no longer help with fieldwork. “But they will come back, as I did, because here they have their house and animals,” reflects Teodora, who, however, warns, “If it gets contaminated, there will be nowhere to return, and then we’ll all have to leave.”

ALWAYS WATER

The question of water or gold arises again, inevitably, as what is happening in Bolivia with the advance of mining, even in protected areas. It is also unavoidable in the face of decisions that other municipalities are forced to make, such as those of the La Paz municipalities of Palos Blancos and Alto Beni, surrounded by the gold fever in the Yungas and the Amazon. Like Challapata, they have passed local laws hoping to rid themselves of mining exploitation and contamination.

“Always water; gold is temporary,” has been the response to the dilemma from leader Rubén Alconcé.

Prudencia, Delma, Isidora, Teodora, Jenny, Ángela, and Venancia, like other women from Challapata, support him from their daily activities of irrigating crops that ensure self-consumption of potatoes, fava beans, and, in some cases, vegetables, or making pito and roasted fava beans, which are highly nutritious. They also do so by caring for the livestock so there is money and food on the table.

For other households, the work of the irrigators of Challapata reaches them in the form of products made by EBA: pasteurized and flavored milk, fruit yogurt, and cheese.

A small shop in downtown Challapata is run by Edeltrudis Calani, Ángela’s daughter, who explains that local demand is gradually increasing, a demand that was once captive to the competition posed by the private company PIL.

But there are also, as mentioned, the artisanal cheeses and yogurt. A master in the latter product is Isidora Tito, capable of giving a master class on all she knows, just as she did for the La Brava camera and with her Renamat companions. One of them, Delma Mamani, is the one who, from the top of the Tacagua reservoir, where she has taken her little granddaughter, launches the statement: “Water, yes; gold, no.”

*This text was created with the support of the Rosa Luxemburg Foundation (FRL), with funds from the BMZ (Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development of the Federal Republic of Germany).

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