Qamiris: The Aymara upper bourgeoisie who now turn their backs on Evo Morales’ left | La alta burguesía aimara que ahora da la espalda a la izquierda de Evo Morales

By Caio Ruvenal, El País; Eju,tv:

The communities that benefited from MAS-driven social mobility are now voting for Rodrigo Paz in Bolivia’s presidential elections.

Elecciones en Bolivia

The sweeping electoral victory of the Christian Democratic Party (PDC) in Bolivia’s Andean region is largely due to its strategy of courting the so-called “new Aymara rich,” or qamiris. Nearly 60% of the vote in El Alto —a city adjacent to La Paz and home to the indigenous bourgeoisie— went to Rodrigo Paz, who will face Jorge “Tuto” Quiroga in a runoff on October 19. This city of over a million inhabitants, practically nonexistent just 50 years ago, had long been a MAS stronghold. Founded by Evo Morales, MAS had fostered the social rise of peasants who migrated there. Over time, a new social class consolidated, now demanding lower taxes and greater opportunities to build wealth.

In Aymara, qamiri means “wealthy or affluent.” Edgar Morales, now head of the PDC campaign, coined the term qamirismo, presenting it as a vision he promotes among young people in Aymara- and Spanish-language talks in schools and universities. “Qamirismo is an economy rooted in Aymara family work. Father, mother, brother, daughter are the ones who sell, import, and manage. The advantage is that they don’t have to pay social benefits that keep small entrepreneurs from prospering,” Morales says. The interview with El País takes place just a few streets from El Alto’s Avenida 16 de Julio, the epicenter of qamirismo, lined with the colorful and luxurious cholets —flamboyant buildings proudly built by merchants.

Owners of these buildings rent out party halls for up to $2,000, alongside commercial spaces that sell expensive jewelry and clothing for La Paz’s cholas. The avenue also hosts, on Thursdays and Sundays, a massive fair considered the largest street market in South America. More than 10,000 vendors fill the streets with electronics, clothes, spare parts, vehicles, light machinery, and household goods, moving an estimated $2 million in just two days, according to municipal data.

Un cholet en El Alto, Bolivia, en 2021.

Most goods come from China, a strategic partner under MAS that became Bolivia’s top source of imports between 2014 and 2018. Another major flow enters through contraband along the Chilean and Peruvian borders. “For everyone to pay taxes, they need to be lower. A car that costs $11,000 abroad ends up at $18,000 here. They even charge you when you leave Bolivia; Customs takes money from everywhere,” Morales argues.

Thus, while qamiris were once a crucial electoral base for MAS —which, riding the commodity boom from 2006 to 2014, cut poverty in half and boosted urban consumption— in recent years they have opposed tax measures they deem harmful. The PDC offers them relief with a proposal to cap tariffs at 10%. Presidential candidate Paz calls it “capitalism for all,” while Morales reframes it as “qamirismo for all”: “Everyone can be a qamiri and own their building on Avenida 16 de Julio,” he told students in one of his talks.

Other promises luring the Aymara bourgeoisie include loans at 3% interest (currently reaching up to 18%) and a “tax pardon” that would forgive fines, interests, and penalties in exchange for paying the principal debt. Morales, who initially sought to run with his own party, Direct Democracy, but lacked funds, dreams of other qamirismo-driven policies, such as institutionalizing the Andean practice of pasanaku.

Pasanaku is a form of rotating savings that has spread even to major cities. Morales explains: “One person collects a daily fixed amount from participants. At month’s end, the pooled money goes to a participant in turn, based on a prior draw. Usually, the winner travels to China to bring back merchandise.”

Habitantes de El Alto, Bolivia, en febrero.

According to Lorgio Orellana, researcher at the Universidad Mayor de San Andrés (UMSA), qamirismo lies in the “antipodes” of the MAS-led movement of social, peasant, and labor organizations. “If in the early stages of the process of change the predominant force was the Aymara and Quechua working classes, today it is chiefly qamirismo as the guiding ideology.” For Edgar Morales, however, the Aymara have always been economically qamiri: “In our language, there is no word for its opposite, unlike Spanish, where you have rich-poor.”

He points to the reputation of Aymara migrants in Brazil or Argentina as proof of this: hardworking, saving as much as possible, and putting in long hours. “They splurge only once, and that’s on parties. They spend thousands of dollars on halls, drinks, and international bands. In a single day they enjoy what they earned all year,” he concludes, laughing.

by Omar Pereyra

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